This little series of articles is aimed not only at the Beginner but also at the experienced student of Italian Rapier (which we will simply call “Fencer”) who wish to better themselves in the arts of the blade. I come with no pretence of years of experience but with knowledge of how to do things right. That does not mean I am yet capable of doing them myself.
This series of Articles will cover 4 essential principles: Footwork, Lunging, Measure and Tempo. It is my belief that without those principles, it is not possible to be an efficient fencer. Whilst anyone can understand the idea that a rapier has a sharp point that goes into the other person's body, successfully achieving it, in particular against a more experienced fencer is not quite as simple as sliding keys in a lock to open it.
Please excuse the lack of illustrations.
Footwork
Historical Fencing is a very dynamic art. For those who come into it from a Sports Fencing background, the dynamics are a lot different. For those new to the art altogether, this will require an understanding of the way your body and your legs function beyond the mere act of walking.
Sports Fencing is typically very linear. It goes backwards and forwards but not so much sideways. Historically, duels would be fought on the street or on a field, away from the marshal's eyes as quite often duelling was illegal. If you were to remain on a single line as you fight, you would quite surely die as your adversary tries to stab you from a different line.
In order to start doing proper footwork, you should first be in a proper stance. That is to say in a position which allows you to move freely at any time in all directions without losing your balance. I recommend a stance with your back straight, your right foot being the leading foot should be pointing in front of you at exactly 12 o'clock. Leave some bend in the knee to prevent too much strain. This will also help with movement when it comes to doing footwork as needed. Your left foot should be at the back with your toe pointing at 9 o'clock or a little wider at 8 o'clock if this is more comfortable for you. If you are left-handed, reverse these instructions.
Remember to leave a gap between your legs to prevent them from colliding with each other should you need to do a passing step. The gap does not need to be very wide, only wide enough that if a line were drawn from your front toe to your front heel, it would not cross with your back foot.
Your back foot should be acting almost as a pillar supporting the weight of your body, your knee should be bend somewhat but not excessively so. Your hips should be parallel to the ground, else you risk harming your back.
This position will feel very awkward and perhaps a little painful to begin with. This is simply due to your muscles not being used to supporting your body in this sort of position. Regular practice will make things easier on your legs and knee with time.
Forward Step
In order to maintain balance throughout it is essential to avoid the crossing of the feet as much as possible. Therefore while going forward in a simple step you should use the ball of your back foot to propel your front foot forward and then return to your relaxed stance. The step itself does not need to be any longer than the length of one of your feet.
Backwards Step
Again, in order to step backwards there should not be any crossing of the feet or at the very least reduction of the length of your stance. This would put you in a position with greater difficulty to escape from. Therefore, the backwards step should be initiated by the ball of the front foot pushing the body backwards lifting the back foot the length of which you wish to retreat. You then bring your front foot in to readjust your stance.
It should be noted as well that the movement of the body should remain as linear as possible. Whilst going forwards or backwards your body should not go “up and down” but straight. In order to aid this while exercising those two steps, find a spot somewhere on the wall and keep fixing it without moving your eyes. A mirror may help to let you see if you have the proper position but beware of the false information it may give you as regards the previous piece of advice.
The Half-Pass
Because the half pass is meant to cover a distance somewhat greater than that of a simple step, the movement of the feet becomes slightly altered. This time you should bring your back foot first level with your front foot. Yet remaining on the ball of your foot should you need to quickly retreat. Put your back foot down and use it to propel your front foot forwards again in order to regain your stance.
Going backwards, the opposite applies. That is to say bring your front foot level with your back foot, then put it down to help your body retreat in a firm stance.
The Full-Pass
This is where the gap between your feet becomes important. To execute a full-pass, bring your back foot forward passed your front foot covering a distance twice as long, or a little less, than the distance between your feet. Then bring your front foot forwards to regain your stance. Again I feel important to insist on the previously mentioned point stating that your body should move in a linear manner while stepping. Also note that the orientation of your feet should not change while stepping, unless it is your intention to go on a different line.
The full-pass backwards is done much like the half-pass backwards. Leave your back foot on the ground as you retreat your front foot to a distance passed your back foot. Then bring your back foot backwards to regain your normal stance.
This ends the first part of this series of articles. Next time we shall see more advanced footwork techniques more appropriate to Historical Fencing giving it its third dimension.